Redefined

How I protect my artwork from damage

Right now, almost all my work is back in the house again, so I am going to spend a few days making storage cases for some of the more vulnerable and newer artworks. This practice started a few years ago, when I made a piece called Forest Floor. I realized it was going to get damaged and dusty, so I spent a lot of time making a custom storage case for it.
The light spot on top is where my cat barfed on it recently. Did I mention she was bulemic? I will probably make a vinyl outer cover to protect the case even better, but I guess I didn't do it fast enough. You can't see in these pictures, but there are a lot of handles sewn onto the case. It's so bulky that my short little arms have trouble carrying this piece without them. I also attached extra handles so I can hold onto the case in just the right places to make it easier to slide the artwork in and out. All the flaps close with Velcro.

The next two pictures show the custom storage case for Transformed. A pre-quilted and very colorful fabric is used for the outer case. I printed a picture of the piece plus my contact information on fabric and sewed it onto the flap for easy identification. Another piece I made around the same time, Triangulated, has a similar case.

Open the outer case and you will find the artwork's components.  The wood pieces are nestled safely and warmly in their own sweet and soft fleece fabric bags. Twill tape is sewed on the the flap area so the flaps can be tied down.

The round "roller" parts are simply placed in old pillowcases and rolled up. Someday, maybe I'll make something a little more customized, but I got lazy by this point in the construction.

My cat hasn't barfed on this case yet. I wonder what's holding her back?

Tracking show entries

This is how I track exhibition information.

I learn about upcoming juried exhibitions by reading magazines, email lists and websites. Almost all entry forms (prospectuses) can be found online these days, so they are easy to print out.

The printed entry forms are filed in a large binder, each one in a page protector and sequenced by deadline date. I write the deadline date on a strip of index card, then slip the card into the front of the page protector so I can see it. If the deadline is a postmark date, I write a little "p" next to the date.

At the same time I file the entry forms, I create an index card for each show which lists the show name and location, the deadline and the notification date. I also write any important rules on Post-it notes, using my own shorthand language. For example, "2 years" means that the entries cannot be more than two years old. I always record the dates that the artwork would be away if accepted into the show. I typically add 10 days or so onto each end to allow for shipping.

The index cards and the notes are pinned to a cork board in my studio. I divided the board into sections with blue painters tape, so I can change the sections easily without damaging the cork.

On my board, the first two lines are used for upcoming exhibits I may want to enter. The third line shows the shows I have already entered and and am awaiting notification. The bottom row has the exhibits to which I'm accepted or otherwise committed.

The name of each artwork is written on an index card strip. The creation year is also on the front of the card and the dimensions are written on the back. I can easitly sort these cards when deciding what to enter into a show, throwing out works that are too old, the wrong size or are already entered into conflicting shows. The pile that is left helps me choose which pieces to enter.

When I am accepted into a show, I replace the show's card with a new one, listing the shipping date, the date of the opening reception and the actual show dates.

I love this method because it is so hands-on and the cork board is always visible, so I don't forget anything. Changing the cards pinned to the cork board really keeps me aware of deadlines.

I want to say one word to you. Plastics.

The last time I gave an organizing tip, I sang the praises of plastic storage boxes. This time, think about the ways you can use plastic bags. They are available in many sizes, from small, snack-size bags meant for lunchboxes to heavy duty, XXLarge bags that can store multiple blankets.

1. Gather the items to be stored and sort them into piles, then load each pile into an appropriately-sized plastic bag. On a small piece of paper, write down the contents and place the label in the bag before you seal it shut. You can fill a box to the top, yet the all contents will still be protected and easily accessible.

2. To store materials that are small or easily tangled, group smaller plastic bags inside of larger ones. I use this method with my box of trims.

3. Recycle plastic grocery sacks by using them for lightweight padding when shipping artwork.

4. Stock up on the 2-1/2 gallon size of bag, available in the foil and wrap section of most grocery stores. You will use them a lot more than you think and you can even store smaller framed artwork in them.

5. When traveling by air, store each day's clothes inside its own plastic bag. Place a label inside and squish the air out before sealing it shut. Your outfits will stay together and in good shape, plus the baggage inspectors will be able to see everything easily, so they won't disturb the contents of your suitcase any more than necessary. Use the empty bags for your laundry on the way home.

They call me The Organizator

I'm one of those artists who keeps a fairly neat studio. Some artists can't function in that kind of environment and prefer to climb over piles to get around the room, but I'm not one of them. Here's my first tip for staying organized.

Plastic storage boxes are the best way to protect your materials from water, dirt and insects, making them extremely cheap insurance for your valuables. The shoe sized boxes are available for a dollar or less, so a $100 investment will probably fill your shelves like you see here. Most superstores have a large selection.

Buy multiple boxes of the same size at the same time because the manufacturers bring out new models every year or two. The boxes and lids you buy next year may not nest or stack properly with your older ones. I tend to buy shoeboxes ten at a time and the larger ones two or three at a time, but when I started, I often purchased in larger quantities. You'll be surprised at how quickly you fill them up.

I label the boxes with a Sharpie marker on stick-on Avery labels. The labels peel off after a number of years, but that's actually a good thing. The boxes never wear out, so they often are reused and this prevents the labels from piling up too much.